That first ride from the airport to wherever you’re staying
in a city is always quite telling. It’s your first true glimpse of the city,
your sigh of relief. It is usually the moment that your excitement builds again
after going through the rituals of flying. I’ll never forget the drive from Charles
de Gaulle to the St. John’s Paris campus, nor the rain-soaked one from Rome’s Fiumicimo
to campus, my first time out of the country (okay, Canada excluded). After
pulling what was essentially an all-nighter for this flight to Manila, I didn’t
really have much left in the tank: I was very much prepared to get to the hospicio and fall right to sleep. Manila
in the nighttime rendered that moot. I should have known better.
This visit Philippines to the Philippines is my first time
out of the West. I had the privilege to study abroad earlier on in my college
career, but as we all know in an artificial way, Manila is not Seville. I had
never even truly been to the developing world before. The first thing that hit
me as we all piled into our car was Manila’s heat. Although already dark, the
air was thick with humidity and I found myself breaking a sweat almost
immediately. But the heat is not what burned itself into my brain, but rather
it was the city’s poverty. Piles of garbage covered stretches of sidewalk with
Filipinos searching through the bags for remnants of food or plastic bottles. Underneath
an underpass, several Filipino men sat rigidly on the garbage as a uniformed
militant with a rifle strapped across his chest sat next to them, his posture
also rigid. The unfortunate lay on the sidewalks, possibly with some cardboard
to cushion them from the concrete. The more fortunate lived in wooden huts,
often with ads for KFC, Pizza Hut, or Globe Phones covering the makeshift roofs.
As traffic slowed to a point where cars could not possibly maneuver anywhere
else if they tried to, I saw a young boy, 14 at the oldest (which just happens
to be my sister’s age), cross the chaotic street, barefoot, holding a garbage bag
filled with plastic bottles. Traffic whizzed past the boy as if he were
nothing. I watched as he disappeared into the night, just a teenager looking to
survive in a world the West only knows of in textbooks.
The next day was even more sobering. We are staying at the Hospicio de San Jose, a campus on its
own island run by our field partners, the Daughters of Charity. The hospicio houses the poor and part of its
services is to house kids from utterly dire conditions. Right after breakfast,
we took a tour of the grounds. One of the first places the Daughters decided to
take us was the preschool. Now, warning, I’m not good with kids. At the time, I
was still extremely jet lagged and dealing with what I could only classify as
some very real culture shock. The little kids, all around the age of four or
five years old, rushed to all of us immediately. They tugged on our shirts
asking to be picked up. Good morning
they all chimed cheerily. One boy tried to climb up my leg to hop up on my
shoulders. They smiled all so widely. To see the vitality, the cheerfulness of these
kids that have had such a hard life was really awe-inspiring and uplifting. One
boy took the rubber band off of my wrist and began to play with it. Once I had
to leave, he offered it back to me which I refused. There’s something really
beautiful about the energy of the kids and the positivity they seemed to have
access to, even with all of the challenges life had presented them.
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